Korea Busan

Ahopsan Forest is a long ride from Haeundae for what amounts to an hour or two on foot. I still think it pays off for one kind of traveller: someone with a spare day who has had enough of the beach. If you're working out how to get to Ahopsan Forest from Haeundae without a car, plan on two subway lines and a village bus. If you've only got three days in Busan and haven't seen the coast yet, leave this one out. Count the stops before you commit The forest is in Cheolma-myeon, Gijang-gun, but this isn't a trip along the Donghae Line like my Jukseong Cathedral route . You go by the city subway, all the way to the end of Line 1. From Haeundae Station, ride Line 2 toward Yangsan and change at Seomyeon. That's 16 stops, or 13 if you board at Centum City. Then take Line 1 to Nopo, the last station on the line, for another 15. So it's 31 stops from Haeundae and 28 from Centum City, and the bus hasn't started yet. I've left out a journey time on purpose...

Jukseong Cathedral isn't a cathedral, and it was never a working church. The red-roofed building on the rocks at Jukseong-ri went up in 2009 as a set for the SBS drama Dream , and it stayed after filming ended. Visit Busan's English page calls it Jukseong Catholic Church. I'll use Jukseong Cathedral here, and both names point to the same building. If you're wondering how to get to Jukseong Cathedral from Haeundae without a car, it can be done, though it takes a transfer onto a village bus. It's free and open every day. I think it's worth the effort if you want a quiet fishing village rather than another big beach. If all you want is one photo for your feed, I'd think twice. Two routes, and the listing disagrees with itself Visit Busan gives two ways in, and its Korean and English pages don't describe the same one. That's worth knowing before you leave. The Korean page sends you by rail. Ride the Donghae Line to Gijang Station and leave by Exi...

I wouldn't cross town from Haeundae just for Suyeong Historical Park. It's a free neighbourhood park with a serious past, and it works well as a short stop on an afternoon you're already spending in Suyeong. Add it to a trip for F1963 or Gwangan Market. Skip it if you've only got two or three days and haven't seen the coast yet. My facts come from Visit Busan's listing and from Busan Transportation Corporation. A naval command under the trees During the Joseon period, this ground held the headquarters of the naval commander responsible for Gyeongsang's left flank and the southern coast. The name of the whole district comes from that post, since "Suyeong" is a shortening of the commander's official title. Busan Transportation Corporation dates the command's arrival to 1653 and says it remained until the Gabo Reform. So the park is the reason the neighbourhood is called what it's called. That's the best argument for going, and...

Whether Millac the Market is worth it from Haeundae depends mostly on the hour. Late in the day, with a coffee or a beer on the stepped seats facing Gwangandaegyo Bridge, I think it earns the short ride. In the morning, or as a pure shopping trip, I'd leave it off the list. The complex is a big indoor collection of food, fashion and small brands in Millak-dong, built on the old ME World site that Visit Busan calls a place of memories for local people. The facts below come from Visit Busan's feature on the place and from Busan Transportation Corporation. The glass wall at the far end Walk straight through the shops and you reach Busking Square, which Visit Busan treats as the building's signature space. It's a bank of stadium-style steps where people sit with a drink and rest. In front of them, a wide glass wall looks out over Millak Port toward the bridge. Visit Busan's writer suggests taking photos from the top or the middle of the steps. The same writer gi...